This morning we started off where we finished yesterday. Back in the Jewish Ghetto, we took a tour of the synagogue (which actually houses two synagoges - Sephardic and the "Great" synagogue. Our visit also included the Jewish Museum (in the same building). Having a guided tour is always better for two reasons: we learn a lot more about the area than a tourbook can provide, and other people on the tour who do not listen and ask questions about the exact information they were told not 60 seconds earlier always provides for some good entertainment.
For example, we learned that the ghetto was located on the banks of the river before there were embankment walls, so the inhabitants were often found literally living "in" the river. We also learned that the Jews were told they could only build a synagogue on one site within the ghetto, but to accomodate all the Roman and Spanish Jews (from the Diaspora), they built five sanctuaries in one building (which is why there are two located in the same building today). Today there are about 14,000 Jews in Rome and 1,000 of the children attend the only Day School in Rome (how many schools are there?). The school provides education from pre-school to high school (so the students go to the same school the whole time?). Lastly, the current synagogue, built in 1904, managed to survive WWII without any damage because it had been listed as a National Monument before the war and any National Monument was left untouched in the "Holy City" of Rome - unbelievably Hilter agreed to these terms (wait, how many children attend the school?)
After the museum, we were already hungry and found a small award-winning restaurant just two blocks away. I thought the tartufo was good. Well, I am willing to say that the cooks in this restaurant are welcome at our house anytime. Mike had some amazing gnocchi with pesto, I had fresh fettuccini with pepper, parmesean and ricotta cheese, and then there was the artichoke. Apparently "Jewish Artichokes" mean that you take an artichoke and deep fry it. And God said, "Let Aviva eat it." All this time I thought the best part of an artichoke was the heart. When you deep fry an artichoke, you can eat the whole thing (except the choke). The leaves (all of them), the stem, and the heart. And its out of this world. If your arteries can handle it, I highly recommend it (can you tell?).
After lunch we were so stuffed, neither of us even wanted gelato. What we needed was a long walk. And we got it. We walked to the Testaccio neighborhood, where we saw the famous pyramid which became part of the Ancient City wall. Just next to the pyramid was the Porta Ostiense - where there is a tower and an access point in/out of the city. Today its a small free museum that had some great maps and models of Rome during various times in history, and some good views from the roof of the tower.
Next, we walked south down a major street, eventually reaching the San Paolo Fuori le Mura. This was the largest (Christian) basilica until St. Peters was built - so you'd be right if we were impressed. The space inside is just huge - its a long building, really wide (five aisles), and really tall. Some interesting facts (beyond geometry):- Even though its not within the Vatican City walls it is still part of the Vatican (apparently it isn't the only church outside the city walls that is part of the Vatican).
- Christians always thought that St. Paul was buried in this area, which is why they built the basilica here in the first place. In 2006, archeologists found a tomb beneath the alter, and then in 2009 they found bone samples which they have traced back and confirm are those of St. Paul.
We made the long walk back to our neck of the woods, stopping for gelato on the way. Back near the Circus Maximus we saw more of the military expo that now seems open to the public. Crossing over to our side of the bridge, we ended the touristy part of our day with a short walking tour of Trastevere. Along the walk we found remnants of an old Jewish synagogue (now a restaurant), and an old medieval Roman church. Apparently, many couples who marry here prefer these smaller churches than the intense Baroque ones like those we've seen on the trip. So many couples, in fact, that the wait for a weekend ceremony can be up to two years. Which may explain why during our time in Italy, we've seen wedding ceremonies on all days of the week, at random times of the day. It was certainly a more intimate church, and we even got to hear a group of tourists put on an impromptu choral performance.After stopping for some vegetables (not for frying), we made it home and cooked dinner. We went out afterwards for some dessert and are getting a better appreciation for the Trastevere neighborhood. Specifically that there are about 15,000 restaurants here. We have a lot of eating to do.
Gelato Gusti per il Giorno:
Mike - Mandorla e Cioccolato Bianco and Cream Caramel e Pistacchio
Aviva - Sesame Nero (Black Sesame) and Cannella e Cioccolate Fondente
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